Camp Hahobas, Tahuya Washington

The most incredible happen to me yesterday as I was getting ready to go into town.  I was on my way to unlock the gate and as I looked up from Pepper, right in front of me, about 10 feet away was a Black Tail Coastal Deer, a doe.  She was majestically walking down the driveway.  She simply looked over at me.  Pepper pulled at the leash and barked a low, soft “woof”.  But the doe, just continued to walk by us, as if she did it every day.  Once my brain kicked in, I thought, I should take a picture. But of course, by the time I got to the camera on my phone she was well down the driveway.  I laughed a soft chuckle at which the doe stopped and looked at me.  I said to her “It’s okay” and she continued on her way.  WOW!  I was amazed at her calm.  She didn’t bound way, she just kept walking.  Have you ever watched the way deer walk? It’s very stately and like I said it’s very majestic.

So how did I end up in such a place? For those of you who haven’t heard, here’s our story (I’ll try to keep it brief)

Last fall, an opportunity we couldn’t say no to, presented itself to Jerry and I.  Jerry has been in scouting for many years.  At the time, he was serving as Assistant Cub Scout Master. So, while looking for something on our Councils web page he discovered they were looking Caretakers for Camp Hahobas, one of the three Scout Camps the Council closed in 2016. These three camps are now for sale, but multi-million dollar sales take time.  We were hired in mid October and moved a month later.  We live in the Ranger’s House.   We are here to discourage vandalism, trespassing and squatters.  Camp Hahobas, is located on the Kitsap Peninsula, in the Pacific Northwest of Washington State.  We are surrounded by the Tahuya State Forest on three sides and the Hood Canal on the fourth.

Our first winter was a trial by fire for me as I am a city girl.  There was about 6-12 inches of snow on the ground from December 8 through the middle of February.  We were told that there would be only a dusting of snow.  HA! One of our neighbors told us there is so much snow because of a condition called “Lake Effect Snow”.  Apparently, the Hood Canal makes its own weather and results in a lot of moisture, i.e.  snow and rain.   The house we call home is an older one.  It has a furnace, but needs a fire in the fireplace to chase away chill the furnace can’t seem reach.  There is a lot of downed trees here but the wood has to be cut, split and stacked.  Jerry does the cutting and splitting, I help with the stacking.

Living remote as we are, has changed the way we shop. We don’t jump in the car every time its discovered something is needed.  We live thirty minutes away from the nearest town and it is a large waste of money to make a trip for one or two items. We make shopping trips about two or three times a month.  I try to group appointments so they are on the same day, usually one in the morning and another in the afternoon and do some of the shopping in between and after.  It makes for a very long day, but it saves gas money and wear and tear on the cars.

We have internet so we aren’t cut off from the world.  I don’t feel isolated. In truth, I love it here.  No city water, with all the chemicals, just spring fresh water.  There is no city noise. The sound of the wind in the trees is a comforting sound once you get used to it. The air is clean and fresh.  The night sky is not effected by city light and on clear nights, the stars and moon are so bright it takes your breath away.

I have been photographing the spring flowers and a few animals as I get the chance.  Enjoy the pictures.

Until next time,  Kathy                                                                                                                 

 

 

Learning How to Crazy Quilt

Learning how to Crazy Quilt and Embellish the Crazy Quilt Block

I’m taking Kathy Shaw’s Beginning Crazy Quilt Course. Class started September 17, 2016.  The lessons are broken down into individual tasks.  I am on the seventh task, which begins the Silk Ribbon instruction.  Tasks 1-6 covered piecing the block and embroidering the base embroidery stitches on each of the ten seams.

Here are my photos of my block as I have progressed through the tasks 1-7.

task-4-web-edit                                                                                           Tasks # 1 thru #4:  Piecing the block

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

task-6-web-edit

 

 

Tasks # 5 thru # 6: Embroidering the Seams with a Template

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bcqc-task-7-block-web-edit                                                                                                  Task #7 : Embroidering the Seams using a Shaped Template

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m currently working on Task # 8: Silk Ribbon Embroidery.

Ms. Shaw offers beginning, intermediate and advanced classes in Crazy Quilting, including embroidery and embellishment. She offers regular quilting classes, as well.  All her classes are very well structured and best of all they are free of charge.  However, be prepared to do homework.  To take her classes you must register for the classes when they are offered.  This is the link to her web site if you are interested  in Kathy’s classes:  www.shawkl.com  Click on the “Free On Line Classes”.  I plan to take the intermediate and advanced Crazy Quilt Courses.

Done is Better Than Perfect!

“Done is better Than Perfect”

A funny thing happened on the way to finishing a gift. I was making the “Welcome Home, Summer! Door Banner” by APQ Quilts and More, Summer 2014, “Welcome Home Door Banners”.  As I was sewing on the binding, I realized the mini check fabric I was using was not a dark navy and white,  but was in fact, black and white.

Black and White Mini Check Fabric

Black and White Mini Check Fabric

I had sewn about a third of the binding on to the banner when this realization hit me.  I stopped sewing and thought, “What am I doing to do? Should I stop and rip it out, find the navy and white check fabric and remake the binding?  I was up against a dead line; we had planned to leave to go to Eastern Washington as soon as Mr. B was off work.  I had only a couple of hours and I still needed to pack, too.  The next thought I had was, “Does this black and white mini check fabric, work as the binding for this project?

I flipped the banner over to look at the front and then I realized, the buttons I was planning to use for embellishment, were black. (watermelon seeds)

welcome home summ-watermelon-webedtI also could use a black and white polka dot button in the center of the daisy type flower.  That was two tie-ends for the black and white mini check fabric.

welcome Home Summer-button-webedt

I also planned to use black pearl cotton to embroider running stitches for the bumblebee’s flight trail.  The button for the bee was black and yellow.

,

 

Here were more tie-ends for the black in the mini check fabric, so I decided to keep the black and white binding and continued sewing it onto the banner.

 

 

 

 

After I finished sewing the binding to the front side of the banner, I folded the binding to the backside of the banner and pinned it in place to sew by hand. I realized the binding looked not just, okay but good, very good.

Welcome Home, Summer Door Banner

:Welcome Home, Summer Door Banner

 

 

 

I was pleased with the color combinations and with the project over all.  I hope the recipient of this door banner will love it and never know a different color binding was planned. (unless she read this blog).  The lesson I have learned (again) is summed up by the quote “Done is better Than Perfect”. Plus I was able to give this gift on time!

 

Note: The picture is not the banner I made and gave away, unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of it before giving it away.  This banner is one I made for myself.  It hangs in my sewing room.

Happy Sewing!

Until next time,

Kathy

The Splendid Sampler

The Splendid Sampler

splendid_button_4

Quilt designers Pat Sloan and Jane Davidson have teamed together along with 83 other quilt design artists and have created “a year long 100 block ‘Epic Adventure’ of quilt making”. Is a mystery quilt that will feature a range of quilting techniques including; applique, embroidery, paper piecing, regular piecing, and English Paper piecing (EPP).  Each of the blocks are 6 inches finished, unfinished the blocks measure 6 ½ inches.  The project started February 14, 2016.  To participate you only need to sign up for the project.  There is no cost for the block patterns. The link below will take you to the Splendid Sampler’s web page.  You can read all about the project and sign up for it if you desire.

I will post my journey with the Splendid Sampler and my blocks. It seems an ambitious project, but so far, I’m having fun with it.  This is my first time participating in such a large group project.  I’ve been able to chat with quilters from all over the globe.  It’s been very exciting!  Click here to go the Splendid Sampler

 

Here are my February blocks:

Block One – February 14 – Hearts a Flutter by Pat Sloan                     spendid block 1-web edit

 

The heart is appliqued onto the four patch .  I used light weight fusible interfacing technique to turn under the raw edges.  the fusible interfacing holds the applique piece in place while being sewn onto the background fabric.

The fabrics I used to make this block are all civil war reproductions fabrics.  I have decided to make all my blocks using civil war reproduction fabrics.  I have collected a good variety of this type of fabric, as it’s one of my favorites.

 

 

Block Two- February 21- Wings by Jan Davidson

splendid block 2-web edit

This block is pieced and features a little embroidery for the butterflies antennae.  I also added Bullion Knots for the butterflies bodies.  36 little squares equals lots of seams.  I had to really work hard at making sure my  seams were true quarter- inch, so all my seam matched up. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Block 3 – February 21  Lots of Love by Melissa Corry

splendid block 3a- web edit

 

This is also a pieced block.  I enjoyed making these sweet hearts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Block 4 February 24 by Jen Kingwell

splendid block 3-web edit

I had fun with this block.  It featured round circle flowers.  I dressed them up with a bit of embroidery to add “petals” I used a variety of pearl cottons in sizes #3, #5, and ,#8.  The vase or pot also got a bit of decoration too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Block 5 – Simple Simon by Celine Perkins

IMG_2650-web edit

 

This is a pieced block. Making it reminded me of making a Disappearing Nine Patch. This block started as a nine patch and then was cut into equal quarters.  As you can see it is sewn back together with sashing strips of blue.

 

 

 

 

 

Note: I haven’t forgotten about the Four Patch Quilt I promised.  I’m working on the tutorial for it and will have it ready soon.

Until next time, keep sewing!

Kathy

 

Part 7: How to Sew the Perfect Quilt Block

Part 7 : Basic Quilting Guidelines: How to Sew the Perfect Quilt Block or How to Sew Seams with a 1/4th or a Scant 1/4th inch Seam Allowance

The secret to sewing the perfect block is all in the seam allowances. In quilting, the 1/4th inch seam allowance is used because it creates less bulk than the 5/8” seam, commonly used in the construction of clothing. There are a few exceptions to this rule; those include paper piecing, sewing on binding which sometimes uses a narrower or wider seam allowance and sewing Rag Quilts, which uses a ½” seam allowance. Each quilter strives to sew a consistent 1/4th inch seam allowance so that the patchwork aligns correctly.

Some patterns call for a scant 1/4th inch seam, this means sewing the seam allowance about a pencil line’s width narrower than a 1/4th inch. You may find sewing a scant 1/4th inch seam works the best for all your patchwork.

Some sewing machines come with a quarter inch foot,

img2196 quarter inch quilting foot-web

but if yours does not you can use the standard foot. However, you will need to figure out which vertical groove on the machine’s throat plate is equal to a 1/4th inch.

img 2214 needle at quater in_web

You can mark the grove by laying down a strip of drafting tape.

img2233tape at quarter inch_web

Alternatively, the fabric stores and quilt shops carry a few products for this purpose, which you can purchase.

 

Always keep the edges of the fabric together and even with either the quarter inch foot’s edge or the 1/4 inch vertical grove or edge of the tape.

img 2238fabric against tape_web

img 2210 fabric at edge of qt foot -mark_web

The most important thing is to test your seam allowance before you start your project. To do this:

Sew a seam

  1. Measure you seam allowance with a ruler. The seam should fall just inside the 1/4th” line of your ruler
  2. If necessary, make any needed adjustments
  3. Sew another seam, than measure again

All this may seem tedious at first, but the more you sew the more natural it will feel.

Sewing a consistent quarter inch seam will help with your accuracy in creating your quilt blocks. Accurately sewn quilt blocks fit together perfectly to create your quilt top.

Here I had to sew a project with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  I followed the step described above to get the correct seam allowance.  The pictures show the steps:

img2244 finding 3 eights seam_webimg2250Tape Placement for 3 eigths_web

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

img2259 sewing 3 eights seam_webimg 2262 check for accuracy_web

I will show you what this project is in the near future, until then,

Happy Sewing!

Kathy

 

 

Gold Dragonfly in the Garden

A Black Meadow Hawk Dragonfly on a spent Iris bloom

A Black Meadow Hawk Dragonfly on a spent Iris bloom

A Golden Dragonfly in My Garden

As I was looking through the photos I had taken of  my garden  I found I had photographed the namesake of my blog.  I realized this picture was taken at the time I was preparing to launch this blog.(June/July)

 

Although I don’t believe in omens, I do believe in blessings. I acknowledge I have received and continue to receive many blessings from my Father in Heaven.  It seems,  the visit of  this beautiful creature,  gave a blessing to begin this blog.  Some may disagree and call the event a     coincidence, maybe it was.  But I like to think it was a blessing.

I did a little research to find out what type of dragonfly, this golden creature is and found it is a Black Meadow Hawk Dragonfly.  It’s black marking will become more pronounced as it matures.

IMG_0587

This beautiful creature inspired me to create a pattern for a piece of quilted art.  I will share it with you in the near future. I can tell you it is a combination of embroidery and pieced quilt blocks.

I hope you can look and find blessings in your life.

Until next time, Happy Quilting!

Kathy

 

Part 5: Quilting Rules or Guidelines How to use the Rotary Cutter

Special Note:  With the exception of one photo, the hands in this post’s pictures belong to my husband (Jerry).  I knew which angles I wanted the pictures taken, but was having troubles explaining them to him. In the end it was easier to teach him how to hold the rotary cutter and cut fabric.  So I took the pictures and Jerry was my model.

How to use the Rotary Cutter

Body posture– Always stand while you are using the rotary cutter (unless you have a physical disability) you will have less neck and shoulder fatigue.

Always cut away from your body. You will have more control of the cutter when cutting away from your body because you can see where you are going. This also allows you to cut more accurately and stay in alignment with your ruler.

Cutting the fabric

The following directions are for right-handed cutting. (I will do my best to describe left-handed cutting in the parentheses)

  • Place fabric on the mat; lay it with the fold toward you as you are facing your cutting table. This goes for right and left-handed cutters. The edge of the fabric you are going to cut will be on the left side of the ruler. [Refer to the photo] The bulk of your fabric will be on the right of your ruler. (Left handed-cutters: The edge of the fabric you are going to cut will be to the right side of the ruler. The bulk of your fabric will be on the left of your ruler.)

DSCN0533

  • Firmly place your non cutting hand on the ruler, in the middle of the ruler so your fingers are away from the cutting edge of the ruler. Place your thumb near the bottom of the ruler [refer to photo below] and your finger tips a comfortable distance up the ruler, don’t stretch your fingers out too far. [Refer to photo below, this is my hand ]

IMG_1212

  • With the rotary cutter in your right-hand hold it so the handle is at a 45 degree angle to the table top. (Left Handed-cutters: Follow the directions above with your right hand on the ruler and directions for holding the rotary cutter in you left hand)

img_1216-edited

  • Place the rotary cutter against the ruler’s edge, a little before the fabric [see photo above], then cut away from your body, stopping when the blade is about even with the figure tips on your non cutting hand. Do not lift the cutter away from the fabric; just hold it in place while you reposition the non cutting hand on the ruler. (Left handed cutters, follow the same directions.)

IMG_1222

  • To reposition your non-cutting hand, walk the hand up the ruler. Put the thumb in the new position followed by your figure tips, remember to place your fingertips a comfortable distance up the ruler. The cutting hand stays still until the non-cutting hand is in the new position.
  • Now you are ready to cut again. Continue to cut away from your body, stopping when the blade is about even with the figure tips on your left hand. Follow Step 3 and 4 to reposition your non-cutting hand and continue cutting until you come to the end the fabric.

IMG_1227

This process may seem unnatural, but with practice the movements will become comfortable and smooth.

How to Square the Fabric

Before you can begin cutting strips for your project, you will need to square up the fabric to get a good clean edge so all the strips will be straight and uniform. *Note: I recommend you practice cutting on inexpensive muslin before you try cutting on your more expensive fabric.

  • Make sure the salvage edges are together. You may need to iron the fabric to remove puckers and wrinkles. I f you need to iron the fabric, you will need to allow it to rest and cool off before cutting. If you cut it immediately after ironing it, the fabric will shrink up a bit and the strips will not be the correct size. Remember the Laws of Physics: When heat is applied to something, it expanse and when it cools it shrinks.
  • Now that you have smooth wrinkle free fabric and the selvage edges are together, you are ready to square up the fabric. Besides your fabric, you will need your rotary cutter, a 6” x 24” long ruler, a 5 or 6” square ruler and a mat that measures at least 17” x 23” (These are the measurements of my Olfa Cutting Mat).
  • You will be cutting strips that are cross grain cuts. (Refer to photo)

IMG_1228-edited

  1. Lay the fabric on the mat; lay it with the fold toward you as you are facing your cutting table. This goes for right and left-cutters. For right-handed cutters the bulk of your fabric will lay to your left. (Left handed cutters, the bulk of your fabric will lay to your right.)
  2. Place the 5 or 6” square ruler on the fabric with the bottom edge aligned with the fold of the fabric (refer to the photo). Next place the 6” x 24” long ruler right up against the square ruler (refer to photo)
  3. Cut the uneven edges of fabric with you rotary cutter and discard the scrap. Now you have a nice even, straight edge and are ready to cut strips for your project.

IMG_1246-editedAvoiding the “V” When Cutting Strips

Your fabric strips will only stay straight as far as your ruler is wide, which usually is 6 inches. After that, sometimes the fabric strips beyond the 6 inches will develop a “V” when you open the folded fabric.  To avoid this “V” you will need to square up your fabric after every few strips. Yes, you will lose a bit of fabric, but it is better to lose a half of an inch or so then to have to recut strips because they have developed the dreaded “V”, which is a bigger loose.   There is a saying, “Penny wise but pound foolish” be “pound wise” and square up after every few strips.

Happy Cutting, Kathy

Next time: How to Read a Quilt Pattern

 

A Correction

It was called to my attention that in my last post titled, Part 4: Quilting Rules or Guidelines – The Rotary Cutter, Its Care and Safety, I used the wrong term, screw, when I should have called it a bolt.  As it was explained to me, a screw has a pointy end and a bolt has a flat end.  I have corrected this error.

Thank you for your understanding.

Happy Quilting, Kathy

Part 4: Quilting Rules or Guidelines: The Rotary Cutter, Its Care and Safety

A Little History

The Rotary Cutter revolutionized quilting in a way no other tool has in the history of quilting. The first rotary cutter was introduced by the Olfa Company in 1979 for cutting out pattern pieces for garment (clothing) making. Quilters quickly adopted it for quilt making. Acrylic rulers and cutting mats soon followed as did strip cutting techniques. Using the rotary cutter, ruler and mat, accurate quilt pieces can be quickly cut out.

Prior to the invention of the rotary cutter, quilters used handmade templates usually cut out cereal or shoe box type of cardboard. Using a pencil, quilters would trace the shape on the back side of the fabric. The quilter then cutout the shape plus ¼” seam allowance all around the shape. The template edges would be worn down by the repeated tracing, creating inaccurate pieces. To avoid this, the quilter made many templates. Long bladed dress making shears were used to cut out the shapes. It was difficult to accurately cut out small quilt pieces using the long bladed scissors.

Folding fabric into squares, rectangles, and triangles was another method used to form the shapes of quilt pieces to cut out. Once the fabric was folded in to the desired shape, the quilter then cut on the folded line to create the desired quilt pieces. This technique also rendered inaccurate quilt pieces.

Rotary Cutter Care and Safety

The rotary cutter is a tool that needs to be used properly and carefully. It is extremely sharp and can inflict deep cut if not handled with care and knowledge. From personal experience, I advise you to keep your total attention on the rotary cutter while cutting; even the slightest distraction can cause an accidental cut requiring a visit to the emergency room for stiches. Most rotary cutters come with a “Blade Guard” and a safety lock. This guard is there to protect fingers from the razor sharp blade and the lock if engaged will protect everything from your fingers, feet, toes, floor, passing children or pets from being cut from an accidental drop. Always engage the lock every time you put the rotary cutter down even if you set it down for a second.

Types of Rotary Cutters

Rotary Cutters come in sizes 18mm, 28mm, 35mm, and 60mm. The medium size and large cutters enable you to cut fabric into strips and other pieces, without templates, quickly. There are two basic styles:

You can see the arrows on the black sliding guard and lock. Pulling the guard down uncovers the blade.  Pushing up places the guard back over the blade.

18mm Rotary Cutter

28mm Rotary Cutter

Back of 18mm Rotary Cutter

Back of 28mm Rotary Cutter

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first are cutters which have a guard you pull back with a finger or thumb to expose the blade. When you push the guard back into place the blade is covered.

 

 

blade closed img 1366 open blade

Y0u can see the arrows on the black sliding guard and lock. Pulling the guard down uncovers the blade.  Pushing up places the guard back over the blade.


The second types of cutters have a spring which automatically pulls the blade back into the blade guard. The blade is exposed when you apply pressure to begin cutting. This type of guard seems safe at rest, but if it is dropped or knock off the table the blade will come out with any type of pressure. It will inflict a cut on anything or anyone the cutter comes in contact with.

35mm Olfa Rotary Cutter

35mm Olfa Rotary Cutter

This style of cutter has a push button lock (mine is red). You push the button closed to lock the blade inside the rotary cutter and you press it open from the opposite side (see photos).

img1273 editedimg1272 edited

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I repeat, get into the habit of locking the blade every time you set the rotary cutter down. The blade guard also protects the blade itself. The blade can get nicked or damaged in a drop so that it is not able to correctly cut fabric. If this happens you will need to replace the blade. A replacement blade can cost between $5.00 and $8.00. You can save a bit if you buy replacement blades in multi packs of 5 or more. A multi pack of 5 costs about $25.00. Watch for sales at the national fabric stores and then stock up.

Parts of the Rotary Cutter

Labled parts-Rotary Cutter

Labled Rotary Cutter

How to Change the Blade of the Rotary Cutter

  1. Unscrew the nut on the side of the rotary cutter and remove. Set it aside

img 1263 nut

18mm Rotary Cutter

28mm Rotary Cutter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Remove the small metal washer (Notice the inside hole of the washer has two straight edges. These will help you to put it back together correctly.) Set the washer next to the nut.

img 1261 metal washerimage 1368 washer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.Next is a large plastic washer or the sliding guard and lock, remove this and set it with the nut and metal washer.

img 1258 plastic washersliding Lock and guard

4. Next is the blade, carefully remove it. Even though it needs replacing it is still sharp enough to give you or anything it comes in contact with, a nasty cut. For now set the blade aside with the other parts.

img 1257 bladeBlade

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.The bolt with large head is the last piece to remove (it will literally fall out of the cutter) set it with the other parts.

img1250 labled bolt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

img 1373 Bolt

6.Clean the lint off the inside parts of the cutter.

img 1250 clean lintimg clean lint

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. Once the lint is cleaned away, reassemble the rotary cutter

8. Replace the large head bolt (Refer to photos above)

9. Every carefully remove the new blade from its packaging and place it on the bolt.

10. Put a tiny drop of sewing machine oil near the center of the new blade.

11. Place the plastic washer on the bolt

12. Place the metal washer on the screw; make sure the flat side of the inside fit the flat sides of the bolt

13. Place the nut on the bolt and tighten until finger tight

14. Place the old blade in the plastic case of the new blade and discard into the garbage. If it didn’t come with a case then tape the old blade to a piece of cardboard and discard.

Next time: Part 5: How to Cut With the Rotary Cutter

 

Part 3: Quilting Rules or Guidelines – Pretreatment of Fabric

Part 3: Quilting Rules or Guidelines – Pretreatment of Fabric

This presentation was supposed to be “How to read a Pattern and The Pattern for the Fabulous Four Patch” however; I realized just how much information I was literally throwing at you. There is information you need before we can jump into the quilt pattern. To provide you with this information, I have broken the steps of Basic Quilting down a bit more.

Fabrics for The Fabulous Four Patch

Fabrics for The Fabulous Four Patch

Pre wash or not to prewash the quilt fabric

Some quilters prewash all their quilt fabrics and others do not. It is a personal choice.   Most fabric sold in quilt shops are high quality quilt fabrics that usually don’t bleed. In the 30 plus years I’ve been quilting I’ve had only one quilt project where one of the fabrics (a navy blue fabric) bleed onto the surrounding light fabrics. If I think a fabric may bleed then I do a test to check its colorfastness. Below are directions to check if a fabric is colorfast or color safe.

Example of color bleeding

The picture above is a small section of a Charm Quilt I made with my mom.  No fabric is repeated in this small quilt.  One of the red prints bled on to the white half of this half square triangle, turning a part of the white tone on tone print a light shade of pink.

Test to Check a Fabric for Colorfastness

  1. Cut a small sample (about a 1 1/2”) piece of fabric.
Colorfast Test

Colorfast Test

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Soak it in warm (bath temp) water.

Colorfast Test - fabric in warm water

Colorfast Test – fabric in warm water

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  Next, set it on a white paper towel and then wait a minute or so.

Colorfast Test -Wet fabric resting on paper towel The color of this polka dot print did not bleed - it is color safe!

Colorfast Test -Wet fabric resting on paper towel
The color of this polka dot print did not bleed – it is color safe!

4.  Remove the fabric sample and check for color on the paper towel.If there is no color on the paper towel then the fabric is colorfast

5.  If there is color from the fabric, place the fabric in the washer add a cup of white vinegar (no detergent or softener) put the washer on gentle cycle. Allow the washer to go through a whole cycle i.e… Wash, rinse, then   final rinse. When the washer stops pull the fabric out of the washer and give it a good shake (you are shaking out the scrunched up fabric) put the wet fabric in the dryer select the setting for delicates. Remove fabric when    dry, then iron. You may want to spray on starch or sizing before ironing it, to give the fabric body.

I prefer not to prewash my fabric unless I believe the fabric will bleed on to the adjoining fabrics. I like the feel of the fabric as it is right off the bolt. The starch it has in it helps me to accurately cut out pieces for my quilt projects. However if I do need to prewash a fabric, I follow the steps I described in the previous paragraph.

Note: Don’t prewash Pre Cuts such as Charm Squares, Jelly Rolls or Buns, Layer Cakes, etc… They will fray and you will lose a lot of their fabric

 

Next Time: How to use the Rotary Cutter, Its Care and Safety